morbidcactus

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 48 points 2 days ago (2 children)

It's Lauren Southern to save a click

[–] [email protected] 11 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Tories will be even pissier than usual if there was a legit coalition government, hell it's even in the wording of what Pierre sent Jagmeet, that the s&c is propping up something that wasn't elected and the like, literally the same shit they did back in the Harper years.

Shocking, a Harper minister sounding like Harper.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 4 days ago (1 children)

While I like Mark Meer for his voice work in other Bioware games (Jade Empire for sure, also I don't dislike maleshep at all) and his work on stuff like the irrelevant show, Jennifer Hale is just fantastic to the point where renegade femshep is to me the cannon version of Shepard

[–] [email protected] 6 points 4 days ago (1 children)

Only if you set them red

[–] [email protected] 11 points 1 week ago (5 children)

Same, was just starting wow classic with my partner as she'd never played wow before, that made us both cancel immediately and never give them another cent.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

https://openrgb.org/ has decent hardware support

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 week ago

That looks amazing!

[–] [email protected] 10 points 1 week ago

Legit I've never had a desire to rewatch any of it since the ending.

I remember seeing leaks being posted on freefolk and thinking no fucking way these are real, realising they were, and then shitting on the rest of the last season with my partner, only way we got through it.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

Aussie Techmoan with Ashens for good measure.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

There's some really decent upscaled samples of Voyager floating around (well, decent looking to me at least). Would love to know how they did it, I tried upscaling sg1 a few years back and have nfi what I'm doing, they succeeded at taking up a lot more space, and that's about it.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Was more a thought about if you are concerned about micro fibre particulate (what I took from your post, sorry if I misunderstood) plastic on plastic or plastic on metal are fine for sure, maybe a little exaggerated. Do wonder though about the wear of 3d printed bushings, surfaces won't be smooth, some of the glass filled nylon I've used has almost a soft surface to it, it's really hard to describe, some post processing though would probably make my (mild) concern moot though so.

Wrt composites hobbyist/prosumer grade manufacturers (some that target engineering customers in that bucket too) claim they don't experience the same warping or shrinkage in general, whether or not that's true I don't have enough information to tell you unfortunately. Have found both common types definitely have more rigidity, I use them in places where that really matters.

It's pretty common to see cheap bearings in 3d printed parts, actually mildly interesting to me that bushings don't seem to be, at least at the hobbyist level. To go further, how many designs do you see with heat set inserts or pressed in nuts?

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago (4 children)

Shit just even for filament printing, there's some solvents that get thrown around online that yeah, you really shouldn't use in a home setting, it's really easy to get things like MEK, which work, but starting to get into nasty territory for stuff that will dissolve filament.

Most people do not have adequate ppe or ventilation to deal with chemicals at home, or a fire cabinet, or even know how to find an SDS.

Semi related, lithium batteries are straight up terrifying, primary cells more than rechargeables, but same idea, I honestly hope no one ever gets to experience an actual full on cell failure, I avoided them thankfully but heard stories of just how much energy is released in even one C or D sized cell going.

On the composite filaments, abrasive filament sure sounds like a great thing to make wear surfaces out of! There's a list if things that idk if I'd print, and that'd be up there, ots oil bronze bushings are like, a buck, maybe 2? And they'll last a hell of a lot longer.

 

Planning on finishing an ercf this year and going can for that so figured good opportunity to swap the hotend over, saved a substantial amount of wiring even compared to the hotend PCB I had, saved the wiring harness just to compare went for a usb can device over running can from the octopus pro, did want to swap the pro over to can as well but ended up keeping it the same instead of messing with reflashing firmware. Hotend has a little 3015 fan and a heatsink on the arm chip so cooling should be fine, looked up the datasheet and it's got a tjmax of like 120c and rated for ambient -40-80c so don't think I need to worry about it, if it's an issue I'll run a fresh air feed to it, will see how it likes abs in the summer shortly.

All in all, super easy swap over, definitely cleaned up my rats nest (though I still should cut the stepper wires to length, they hide in the imitation panduit I printed, it's neat enough to be serviceable and not be a hazard), used katapult (formerly canboot) and then flashed klipper onto the board, only minor issue is it uses these tiny jst connectors, like really small, btt ebb sb2209 and btt u2c usb can device, was a good resource to follow for any of the network interface configs that I needed to do and gave some good details on diagnostics.

 

Quick question to the community, does anyone have some good tools to sculpt stls or step files?

Context, I'm working on some decorative keychains and have a vector image and text I want to add to the base object. I've used aolidworks for both in the past with alright results but I've switched over to freecad this year, haven't had a lot of luck adding in there, vector image is a tracing of a dog that I was provided, it's simplified but still has a lot of components.

I did look into blender but be honest I'm totally lost using it and have no clue what I'm doing coming from parametric modeling, I'm not an artist at all, my comfort zone is functional parts usually, but was approached by a friend. I did do some mockups in prusa/superslicer where I've added my image and text as negative volumes and merged into a single part. It works but it feels like a really hacky workaround (relevant XKCD) and would prefer to do it right. Any suggestions or resources would be appreciated!

If interested, here's the mockup that I've done a few test prints on, found I needed to change the line width of my vector a few times and made some features exaggerated so they'd come out more. I've (poorly) covered some identifying text on the back, left the rest as to get a feel for what I'm trying to do, did do some rough sanding on the below pictures. There's a pocket on the top edge that accepts a keyring, it's kinda chunky, about the size of a pog slammer or a thicker poker chip.

Rough Sanded Front of keychain with image of a Bernese Mountain DogBack of keychain with some details obscured

 

Just as an FYI because it's saved me grief in the past, both klipper and octoprint can be setup to exclude certain objects while printing. You need to setup your slicer to provide gcode that enables the feature, but it allows you to stop printing a bad object, can reduce wastage in the case where only one part has failed but the others are ok.

Prusa/Superslicer are what I have experience using it with, I used a preprocessing script to output compatable gcode but apparently there's a label objects option directly in both slicers, the klipper link below goes over enabling that feature.

AFAIK Octoprint needs a Plugin
Klipper has native support

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