RandomUser

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 months ago (1 children)

Not sure I understand the problem fully, but you want a circuit to operate when you push the horn button, without affecting the horn operation.

Chances are the relay coil is drawing to much power.

Have you thought about adding a transistor to your circuit? It would draw very little current from the horn circuit but should allow you to drive something else. - such as your relay. It would of course require you to do some electronics.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 months ago

Remember that you are also interviewing them. They won't expect you to know all the answers, but will want someone that they can work with. If you can, answer questions with the STAR method (situation, task, approach, result), but don't waffle. You can use one piece of experience in a variety of ways: teamwork, research, urgent deadline etc.

It's ok to say that you are nervous, they should try to put you at ease.

You may be asked 'trick questions', these are not usually to to you up but to see how you work an unknown problem. There is no right answer. Not knowing stuff is ok. Not being able to think up a plan is less so.

Remember whatever the outcome, this is really useful experience. See if you can get a site tour, ask about the tech used... You can then add this to your knowledge for later. In my experience, industry is frequently several years ahead of academia so you get a good chance to understand the real world.

[–] [email protected] 26 points 3 months ago (2 children)

I'd go with a good quality traditional key lock fitted properly in a good door and frame. Security isn't a single point task, it depends on many things so think like a bad person and do what you can to make your property a harder target than your neighbours.

A good lock on a bad door doesn't work, neither does a bad lock on a good door. Everything needs to work together. If you're likely to lose your keys or many people need access a smart lock may be an idea, but good probably isn't cheap. If it's just you and you can keep your keys safe, then I think tried, tested and simple kit is good.

Ultimately though, as ever, it's your risk assessment based on your needs.

[–] [email protected] 37 points 3 months ago (8 children)

If you watch lock picking lawyer, you may as well just leave it open. Most smart locks seem to prioritise convenience over security. -possibly check that your insurance is happy with a smart lock.

[–] [email protected] 15 points 3 months ago (1 children)

There's a good chance that it's the capacitors in the PSU that have failed. It's always the caps! Should be a very doable repair.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 3 months ago (1 children)

Ermmm.... If you use several pins to get the current rating, what happens if one of the pins fails or gets corroded? Won't you risk generating heat? Think I'd prefer nice big connectors for the power and to keep the data lines safely segregated. Depends on your needs and design I suppose.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 4 months ago

It's like everything, practice slowly, get good form wired in, then when you write fast for exams your writing will be worse than normal, but still legible.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 4 months ago (2 children)

Practice writing slowly and with good form. Write regularly, give yourself practice pieces. At uni you will be writing FAST, so it'll get worse if you don't keep disciplined.

Alternatively, learn to touch type, and type any work you need to hand in. - if your handwriting is so bad, you may want to make your notes legible to yourself for revision.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 4 months ago

Brilliant, many thanks. With all the old phones in my cupboards I'd hoped this was the answer, but it's good to get a second opinion.

 

I want to store a battery powered device long term (decades) as a reference article, it will never be switched on or charged again. The problem is that it contains a small LiPo battery that will be very hard to remove.

Is there likely to be any significant risk I need to worry about? Once depleted will the battery be relatively inert?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 5 months ago (1 children)

This is very interesting. Have you considered studying social engineering? - I've found SE techniques quite understandable to help form a process to deal with people in a 'useful' way. Many years ago I was sent on a positive influencing course via work and discovered that most NTs can be quite easily manipulated with a few simple tricks. In the end I stopped using them as it felt unfair.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 6 months ago

Butt your enclosure right up against the lock body, then you reduce shearing forces trying to pull it off the door. Extend the pull bar through your enclosure so you still have a manual override.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 6 months ago

While I'm not adverse to home automation, is this something you need in your life, or just want? I like my perimeter security too be simple and tight, extra complications make the security audit much harder.

Will your insurance stand up to home made remote control unlocking?

To answer your question, place the servo in a suitably large enclosure and practically any adhesive should work, e.g. 3mM command strips or even velcro or double sided sticky. When confident that this is what you want, use a screw.

3
New Build (lemmy.world)
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Do self build watches get the love in here?

This is my second build, I wanted a more relaxed every day watch with good readability as my eyesight is starting to go. I also fancied a bronze case and will let the patina form naturally. Any scratches, marks or dings will, I think, add character.

Inside is a Seiko nh36 to give me some options later if decide I need day/date.

Thought I'd made a mistake with the white hands but now really like them. It's nothing special or expensive but it meets my needs perfectly.

 

Project was to display tide information (time and height) on an LED panel. Fingers crossed the image loads!

OK, it's not an Arduino as such, it's an ESP32, but I programmed it on the arduino IDE. I get the time from an NTP time server and tide data from an API. A bit of messing around with daylight savings times and I display the next four tides on the Hub75 LED matrix. Date and clock is shown on the other side. Every 24 hours I pull new data down and sync the clock.

The good: It works as planned.

The bad: API keys and wifi creds are all hard coded so will need a firmware update if either change. Don't think I have sufficient pins left to allow me to read from an SD card.

The ugly: The wiring behind it is not beautiful. The code could do with a review and tidy. - Maybe even a bit of error handling wouldn't go amiss. Red and Blue are a bit jarring so close together and the blue is a bit swamped , especially when the brightness is turned down.

I may make an enclosure to keep it all together and keep the dust off and add a pir sensor to turn the display off when there's no movement. Or I may get bored and dismantle it!

 

I bought a slate clock as a restoration project but didn't spot at the time that it had been painted black.

Any advice on how to remove the paint without causing damage? Will commercial paint stepper do the job?

 

While not quite Arduino, I have an ESP32 (Arduino IDE) project to pull tide data via API and show it on a HUB75 led matrix. I've got most of the parts working separately but not quite got them all together yet. What is everyone else doing?

 

While not quite Arduino, I have an ESP32 (Arduino IDE) project to pull tide data via API and show it on a HUB75 led matrix. I've got most of the parts working separately but not quite got them all together yet. What is everyone else doing?

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