It seems to be lagging behind by hours.
For instance, this thread on lemmy.world shows 5 comments and 56 upvotes, while the same thread on lemmy.sdf.org has 3 comments and 24 upvotes only. And the weird thing is, I posted this thread from lemmy.sdf.org, as well as one of the comments, and outgoing is instantaneous. It's just incoming comments and votes that don't seem to come through.
It depends on your prescription, the material you choose, coatings and such. The shape of the lenses or the type of beveling have no impact on the price, unless they're highly curved with a step bevel for instance.
My lenses are standard polycarbonate lenses with a basic scratch-resistant coating. But I have astigmatism and I need progressives, so the lenses come out at $400. And usually I also order a pair for far and near (not progressive) and they're like $200 per.
That's the only problem with the registration tabs in my design: it requires notching the bevel of the lenses - meaning you have to work up the courage to bring a file to brand-new lenses you just paid a sizeable portion of your last paycheck for π
baseless lawsuits erode public trust
Haha that was a good one. As if lawyers had any reputation to lose...
Here's an old joke:
You're in a cage with a wild angry gorilla and a lawyer and you have a revolver with 6 bullets: what do you do?
Shoot the lawyer 6 times and try to reason with the gorilla.
I suppose the server has to catch up now, right? There seems to be plenty of stale discussions.
It depends on the material and printer and the orientation of the hole. Vertical holes (or up to 20 degree from vertical if they're angled) are the most accurate because you basically exploit the printer's X and Y locating abilities. Horizontal holes will always end up ovalized because horizontally they'll be correct, but vertically they can only have a dimension that's a multiple of the layer height.
With the aforementioned Prusa Mk4 printer and PLA, all the vertical small holes I print usually end up under Β±0.05mm / 0.002" from the desired diameter. If the dimension is very important (for example, holes for a pogo pin holder that needs to fit with interference, otherwise it would fall off) I'll print it 0.1mm / 0.005" undersized and then I'll ream the hole just enough to get the proper fit. It's quick but not as quick as not reaming the hole obviously π
Note that our printer is in a closed enclosure and that seems to make a difference for repeatability: if I leave the doors open, the diameter of the final hole varies a bit more. Nor a lot more but noticeably.
Thanks! π
You might find this little tool useful:
This is a block with a series of vertical and horizontal holes from β1 mm to β3.6 mm (nominal) in 0.1-mm increments. I print this block with any new printer / new material at the layer thickness and speed I use most often and keep the blocks as references.
Then, when I want to print a part with a hole in it that will end up printed at the final diameter without any rework (or very close, but usually it ends up exactly right) I use the gauge block I printed with the printer and the material I intend to print the part out of to find out which nominal diameter hole I need to use in the model for the hole.
For instance, the block in the photo was printed on a Prusa Mk4 with PLA at 0.2 mm layer thickness. If I want a β0.8-mm vertical hole with no interference in my final part in PLA out of that printer, I'll need to model a β1.2-mm hole. I know that because the shank of a 0.8-mm drillbit will slide freely in the vertical hole marked β1.2 in the block.
Or if I want a hole that I can screw an M3 screw into without having to run a tap through it, the block tells me I would have to use a β3.2-mm hole to fit a β3-mm pin in freely, and I back off 0.4 mm to get a hole in which the screw thread will engage well but reasonably lightly, or 0.5 mm for a tighter engagement (but with a bit more risk with horizontal holes near an edge, because the layers might separate) so I know I'll have to model a β2.8 or β2.7 hole in the model.
I use those gauge blocks all the time. They save me a lot of time on parts that I print often because I never have to ream or thread the holes: they come out the printer just right and ready to use.
Yeah I watched some Gutfeld. He does go through the motions but his jokes never really land. It's kind of like having a conversation with an AI chatbot: it's convincing to a degree but something is off and it's nowhere near as enjoyable as talking to a real person.
Yeah he wears heavy biohazard protection, complete with the hood and the respirator and everything. He's better isolated than a cosmonaut on the job.
This argument hinges on the premise that churches aren't evil to begin with.
We're only a few DOF away from getting Zuckerberg-powered prostate exams. Eww...
Here's an interesting video about Zuckerberg's rebranding:
If you use the Flameshot screenshot capture and annotation utility, you might have noticed that the Choose an app to open the capture (or Ctrl-O) option doesn't work right: something flashes quickly on the screen but nothing happens.
That's Flameshot throwing a fit because it can't open a popup window with the size it wants in i3. So to make this option work, let it π
Add this line to your .config/i3/config:
for_window [class="flameshot"] floating enable
As a bonus, it also makes the configuration screen look better.
It's getting quite good, and considering what I paid for it, it's very very good indeed π