This is gonna sound even stupider, I actually got my cables mixed up and the cable I plugged into the Mac Mini thinking it was the Speakers was actually the other end of the Line In cable so audio was being sent to nowhere.
Plugged the actual Speakers cable in the Mac Mini and audio played find through the Speakers.
Re-arranged the cables back to the previous setup and the issue remains :(
Ohhh very interesting, didn’t think to try THAT.
When I unplug the jack from the Mac Mini, the audio plays out from the Mac Mini’s internal speaker (that I tried).
But when I unplug the speakers from the main PC and plug them into the Mac Mini, nothing plays through the speakers.
Outputs listed on the Mac Mini are: LG ULTRAGEAR (HDMI), External Headphones (Headphone port), and Mac mini Speakers (Built-in).
Default audio device is set to External Headphones (the jack port i’m using that worked perfectly before), unmuted and volume set to 75%, so audio SHOULD play, but it does not.
Edit: really weird that it works fine through Windows though. Audio from the Mac Mini’s plays fine when plugged to the main PC and it’s booted to Windows, but not through Linux and not through the Speakers directly??
Oop yeah I should’ve probably specified that.
Speakers work fine, it’s specifically the Line In that doesn’t seem to work. Motherboard only has two jack ports: Line Out (Speakers, works), and Line In (doesn’t work at all).
Once every couple of days the Speakers audio will cut out for about 5s and come back, but I can live with that (couldn’t seem to find errors logged relating to this).
While having a video playing on the Mac Mini so I’d have a constant source of noise, I tried using arecord and aplay to test if any audio at all was coming in, got nothing. I tried testing the “microphone” in Discord, Discord tells me it’s not getting anything at all (but it does do a brief crackle right when I click “Let’s check” under the mic testing option).
Alright so I tried your solution, and it had a very interesting effect…
Now both boot partitions boot straight to Windows. Entirely skipping systemd-boot and Arch.
On the plus side it does mean that just copying Windows’s bootloader files to Arch’s bootloader partition will boot Windows no problem.
On the downside, my issue remains the same, I can’t get dual boot to work.
Edit: didn’t work, check new response.
So potentially that solution could work on the same drive with two separate boot partitions like I did earlier then?
Bit of a hacky way to go about it, but if it works it works.
And I guess that would potentially prevent the issue where a Windows update breaks the Linux bootloader from happening as well. Not that this has ever happened to me, but it’s an issue I’ve seen people talk about for years.
I’ll wait a bit longer to see if anyone has any suggestions/fix as to why slapping GRUB/systemd-boot in the same partition as Windows’ bootloader doesn’t seem to work, and if not or if it doesn’t work I’ll go with that.
Thank you!
Weren’t there a few (ex?) employees that came forward shortly after the initial accusations surfaced and confirmed it was true?
I could be misremembering things but I also vaguely recall the initial accusations being backed up with receipts. Wasn’t there an Imgur album with a whole bunch of screenshots of conversations proving the accusations weren’t made up? Or am I confusing two completely different situations together?
I didn’t follow the situation super closely, and moved on and forgot about it until I saw this post.
Edit: looks like i was indeed wrong and confusing two separate situations.
Current owner of 4 and a half years (love the car, it’s not perfect but then again nothing is, but the company is ass and don’t even get me started on the CEO).
In my experience, Tesla will only force an update if it contains a “recall” hotfix. The car requires to be connected to a WiFi network to download the update (it won’t use the onboard data even if you pay for the premium plan).
I’ve seen people claim that the car will automatically download an update on its own if it sits ignored long enough (even without WiFi or premium data plan), but I’ve had an update sit for 3 months and my car never attempted to download/install it on its own so I’m not sure what “long enough” means.
If you really wanted to, I’m sure you could completely prevent it from phoning home by pulling a fuse or finding the data antenna and disconnecting it, but I never looked into it myself.
Edit: My car also puts a 2min countdown on the screen when you start an update, that should give anyone plenty of time to leave the vehicle.
I’ve tried following this guide and the one on Arch’s Wiki to no avail, but I’m sure I could’ve messed something up somewhere somehow.
I think I’ve ruled out the issue being loopback specific, because even trying to use the Line In as intended (eg: joining a Discord call with the Line In set as the microphone), no audio comes through.
The motherboard is pretty recent, recent enough that it seems it doesn’t have Linux compatible drivers for Bluetooth, so I wouldn’t be surprised if my audio issues stemmed from the same problem. That, or the motherboard doing this weird jack-to-usb bridge…