It’s absolutely preservation in use in an academic sense, just not following best practices for archival of the original data.
Did screenshots taken with the method you mentioned have bloom, Like you would see from an image taken from a CRT? I associate bloom in screenshots from being directly Photographed from the CRT.
Nintendo power had tons of images taken directly from photos of CRT‘s. Some of them may have used your Method, but many of them (Especially contests) Specifically asked readers to send in photos to show whether they’ve done certain things.
Truancy courts are not controversial. Literally holding a parent criminally liable for not sending their child to school. Maybe there’d be less Lord of the Flies gangs of tweenage criminals in every major city if truancy was better enforced.
I haven’t mentioned Project 2025 to my parents or my siblings because it is the culmination of everything they’ve been told they want since they voted for Reagan. It would make them vote harder. So yeah, you’re right.
The price of the console, any modern quality of life upgrades (RBG out, in game reset, etc), the price of the best flash cart and an SD card loaded with ROMs.
I already tried the Wi-Fi reseating. One unit I bought, that was the only thing that was wrong with it. But not the two ones that I managed to kill more than they were already dead. The Wi-Fi boards are interchangeable between units, aren’t they?
I will try the battery again but I already hold the battery in place when I’m testing and I highly doubt it’s the issue given that the contacts were working fine prior to the failed repair. I also tried several batteries that I know work. Nothing worked
Also good for getting to pornhub.com if you live in one of the states they’ve blocked.
Neusthetic counseling or WTF the fundies call their fake therapy and then he’s fine. They will call him a recovering sex addict (I.E. On the same level as a married man who watches porn, in their usage of the phrase) and who will dissociate when you try to talk to them about what he actually did.
I can't hear you over the din of the kali box whites and the screaming child, what did you say?
And yet we act like boiled frogs, each generation making fun of the prior one for expecting things to be better than they are. Gen z is so used to things being like shit that they think that all older generations are entitled fuckers And that we should get used to everything being worse because Right now it’s the best they’ve ever known.
I have a DSi that is in very good condition but for the right shoulder button. It does work but I have to press very hard to get it to register. The "lift up the button and blow into it" does actually improve the function of the button for a bit (I use canned air, not moist mouth) but it doesn't take long at all to NOT work either. Does anyone have a REAL solution that actually works short of disassembly and replacement of the button?
As mentioned, fuse was blown on battery board. There was also battery corrosion. Reflowed solder on corroded solder joints, used fiberglass scratch pen to expose traces next to the absent fuse solder pads, and used a wire fragment/solder blob to bridge the gap for testing. It worked. Now need fuses. Overscratch area was covered with clear nail varnish (not visible but it’s there). Someday I’ll get myself some proper solder resist and a UV light.
Three items of note:
(1) the power connector (red/black wire connecting battery board to main board) disconnects by LIFTING the connector out of the socket, not by pulling horizontally.
(2) the D-pad left button didn’t work well. I blasted the rubber pad and external d-pad button with contact cleaner (even though there is no electrical connection involved with these items). There was hardly any dirt, so I didn’t think it would work. Holy shit was I wrong.
(3) the blue power LEDs don’t light. No idea if my board work broke the LEDs or if it happened when the fuse blew.
As mentioned, fuse was blown on battery board. There was also battery corrosion. Reflowed solder on corroded solder joints, used fiberglass scratch pen to expose traces next to the absent fuse solder pads, and used a wire fragment/solder blob to bridge the gap for testing. It worked. Now need fuses. Overscratch area was covered with clear nail varnish (not visible but it’s there). Someday I’ll get myself some proper solder resist and a UV light.
Three items of note:
(1) the power connector (red/black wire connecting battery board to main board) disconnects by LIFTING the connector out of the socket, not by pulling horizontally.
(2) the D-pad left button didn’t work well. I blasted the rubber pad and external d-pad button with contact cleaner (even though there is no electrical connection involved with these items). There was hardly any dirt, so I didn’t think it would work. Holy shit was I wrong.
(3) the blue power LEDs don’t light. No idea if my board work broke the LEDs or if it happened when the fuse blew.
Sorry about the stock photo. Anyone ever have luck rehabbing one of these boards? Recently got my hands on a DSi XL missing the battery and battery cover. Yellow flashing light of death even with replacement battery. On disassembly, there was battery corrosion. The fuse on the battery board was not only blown, it was totally absent and the pads are corroded away. I could probably rework the fuse pads but it’s very tiny work. Ribbon connector also corroded but might be salvageable. I know there are replacement boards still readily available.
Anyone know where you can get replacement battery covers, besides buying either a parts unit (for stupidly high prices, what do these hawkers think a repair unit is worth?!?) or a full replacement shell for $30? Anyone 3D printing them yet?
Sorry about the stock photo. Anyone ever have luck rehabbing one of these boards? Recently got my hands on a DSi XL missing the battery and battery cover. Yellow flashing light of death even with replacement battery. On disassembly, there was battery corrosion. The fuse on the battery board was not only blown, it was totally absent and the pads are corroded away. I could probably rework the fuse pads but it’s very tiny work. Ribbon connector also corroded but might be salvageable. I know there are replacement boards still readily available.
Anyone know where you can get replacement battery covers, besides buying either a parts unit (for stupidly high prices, what do these hawkers think a repair unit is worth?!?) or a full replacement shell for $30? Anyone 3D printing them yet?
One of my favorite mods to do is restoring RGB and S-Video capabilities to the NTSC SNES Jr. (which is a cost-reduced version of the "one-chip" SNES) using voultar's mod.
What I want to know is this: why can I use a cheap-ass friction-welded Aliexpress SNES multiout RGB NTSC SCART cable (EXAMPLE ONLY, I DID NOT BUY FROM THIS PERSON) to connect my voultar mod SNES Jr. to the OSSC, and I have a PERFECT PICTURE on my HDTV, when, alternatively, I use the console5 mod with the same cable and OSSC and I have sync issues (sometimes a distorted signal, sometimes "No compatible signal" black screen from my HDTV)?
Voultar uses a better video amp than most of his competitors, mainly because with the THS7374 you can disable the LPF, while most competitors use the THS7314/7316 video amp with the LPF permanently enabled. But this should not impact sync, should it?
Someone explain why I can use stupidly cheap cables on voultars SNES RGB mod but not other's mods.
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Bet you a nickel that old Wii now has a toasted GPU chip and graphical artifacts. The Wi-Fi chip apparently cooks the GPU if you has Wii24 enabled.