jon_slider

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

Beautiful work! thanks for the photos

fwiw, something like that could be good for pilots that want a Red Light in the cockpit, plus powerful enought white light to do exterior walk around inspections.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

Wurkkos TS10 MAO w sw45k mod is in my pocket. It is my favorite TS10.

picture album: https://imgur.com/a/KMuvsRP

in stock form I like to carry the Silver TS10 w 6000K leds.. review album here: https://imgur.com/a/H9Usict

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

these flowcharts are just fantastic!

thank you very much for sharing them

I have started using them, marked up with the specific changes I make to different anduril lights I own, like this one for my Aluminium TS10's:

https://i.imgur.com/YH8Eh5A.png

makes it really easy to keep track of changes I make to the factory defaults

I nominate this thread to be a sticky.. Thumbs Up!

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

thanks, fun video,

Im going to tell people that copper lights smell like mushrooms.. lol..

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago

I’m ok with testing its limits

Im appreciating learning from your experience Thanks for sharing info

I respect that youre taking precautions. I think your idea to use water cooling could work well ;-)

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (2 children)

I did not know at the time blinky modes were conflicting with thermal throttle.

Im glad you shared your experience, I also did not know the blinkies have no Thermal Regulation..

I may use it at full power again (while shooting), but turning it off between takes and cooling it in water.

ok, I hope that works out for you.. imo, the problem is that you are using too high an output, it obviously gets too hot when you use "full power".. Candle mode was intended to be used at very low outputs.. you are imho, misusing the candle mode for something that is not its intended purpose, and you are allowing the light to get too hot by not holding it in your hand.

but, if you insist.. I suggest you stand the light in a glass of water, so the host will be cooled during the excessively high output..

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (4 children)

I used it continuously in candle mode @ high with the original silicone diffuser for a video shoot

now that you have learned it gets too hot and has no thermal regulation..

suggest next time you want to use candle mode, that you limit your use to level 6 of the 7 stepped modes.. and check with your hand after a couple of minutes, to confirm if that keeps the light cool enough

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

well-photographed

thanks..

the secret for me, has turned out to be to take photos during daylight hours (not in the dark).. it seems to help the iPhone camera (auto white balance), to produce useful beam color comparisons, for me.. Plus daylight shows what the host looks like.

the other thing that has turned out really handy as a background is my gray soldering mat.. (better than white paper).

example: https://i.imgur.com/HuON5ib.jpg

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

UV

here is a good video of a D2 w UV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTk1XAh8EFU

and a good review of a D2: https://tgreviews.com/2023/04/26/emisar-d2/

the reviews have differing opinions on whether to choose the spot optic or the flood optic.. I went with the flood option and am very happy with it.. (it is Not Very Floody, it just makes the beam round instead of square)

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)

my first hank light might be a D2 if I can settle on an emitter combo.

I recently bought my first Hank, a D2.. its a fun little light.. more details in this album: https://imgur.com/a/vXeGC1t

I also have a couple of TS10, and I really like them too. Here is an album w one of mine, modded to sw45k: https://imgur.com/a/KMuvsRP I will probably buy the Titanium model next.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 1 year ago

congratulations looks very nice, thanks for the pics

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

Super grateful! Enjoy your weekend ;-)

 

outstanding little Regulated Anduril Light!

Album w more details: https://imgur.com/a/vXeGC1t

 

Loving the color of this beam.. Just perfect for dark of night.

available for adoption

 

SC21 Pro is my favorite little anduril host

more info

 

What might be a good strategy to remove the stock XP-G LED on the DQG Ti AAA driver? I want to install a 219b. Please see this album:

https://imgur.com/a/CgNuZcO

I’m debating options:

  1. hot air from the LED side, but not sure how to keep the components on the bottom of the board from falling off.. I do have some Kapton like tape, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W3FAFP0/ but it has almost no adhesive and does not stay in place.

Im wondering if “real” Kapton tape would stick better? Ive never tried it.

  1. Im debating using a soldering iron to heat the positive contact disc on the bottom of the driver, below the LED.. same concerns about components falling off. I expect the positive contact disc would be the first thing to get desoldered.

brainstorming and suggestions welcome..

11
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Hi guys seems lemmy does not want to show me more than 7 posts..

dont know what went wrong.. Im guessing my computer is too old. I cant see any of my own posts..

I give up on Reddit and Lemmy

was nice hanging out.. you can reach me on BLF or CPF.. BLF preferred..

18
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Both lights are modded to 3000K 219b, w 30 degree Pebbled Tir.

tldnr: Compare and Contrast Summary

The Mini has better regulation, runtime, and less flicker than the Pro. It lacks a constant on indicator button light, but has a more muggle friendly low battery warning.

The Pro has better low modes below 1 lumen, and much better ramping control. It also has a battery voltage check option.

===

the longer version ;-)

Ramping

The Mini has its own version of a ramping UI (plus a toggle to a 3 mode clicky UI). The ramping on the Mini jumps up from the low mode, to about 60 lumens very quickly. It takes some fiddling to dial in a lower output, for example 10 lumens.

I like the Pro ramping speed better, it is much easier to fine tune to an output in the 10 lumen range.

Driver efficiency and regulation

The Mini has regulated output and can Sustain 300 lumens 4x longer than the Pro (53 minutes vs 13 minutes):

runtime charts courtesy of zeroair

The Mini has much lower flicker index. (flicker index is a combination of modulation depth and frequency).

The Pro has full PWM, iow 100% modulation, where the LED is turning all the way off and back on, albeit at very high frequency that is too fast to see.

Button light, low battery behavior

The Mini has a button light that only comes on for about 5 seconds when the light is first turned on. It is an automatic battery level indicator. When the battery is charged, the button light shines bright Green for 5 seconds when first turned on. With a CR123 battery (to simulate a discharged LiIon), the button light fast blinks bright Red, non stop, while the light is On. This is a very muggle friendly battery indicator.

The Pro has a button light that by default is on in dim Green all the time. I like this locator light feature. It helps me find the light in the dark, for example when I put it on my nightstand. The button light also helps me find the switch button when using the light. The Pro with a CR123 shows dim Green rapid flashes, only while the light is off.

Output Range

The lowest level on the Mini is 0.8 lumens, momentary maximum is 415 lumens, with a 3000K 219b.

The lowest level on the Pro is .02 lumens (w visible PWM when waving the light), momentary maximum is 480 lumens, also with 3000K 219b.

Flicker Index

The Mini:

Flicker Index of 0.2704 when at about 6 lumens output.

Flicker Index of 0.0042 when at about 30 lumens output.

(Flicker below 0.0500 is considered harmless.)

The Pro:

Flicker Index of 0.7951 at about 6 lumens output.

Flicker Index of 0.5339 at about 30 lumens output.

(The Pro scores poorly due to PWM, although it is very fast)

Opple 3 flicker measurements

https://i.imgur.com/M6p3q0h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YzKsaVt.jpg

 

trying to figure out how to post inline images from an Imgur link.. so far, nothing works.

Best I can do is build an Album and link to it.

12
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

first post on the new site.. Nice to see many familiar redditors.

Suggestions welcome on how to make my imgur images show inline, instead of as a link?

Here is the whole HDS album in one swell foop: https://imgur.com/a/hXiAKxM

sw45k at 200 Lumens and 110 meters of throw https://i.imgur.com/pOs0mUF.jpg

4500K 519a DD https://i.imgur.com/FOjvqaE.jpg this was a 140 lumens 219a light with the DD 4500K 519a it now makes 193 Lumens w 138 meters of throw

compare cct and tint https://i.imgur.com/aZYAmhi.jpg

the sw45k got trits: https://i.imgur.com/RSpRTVX.jpg

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