3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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Usually? Like for routine pla prints? I've found myself having to do this (man I love magigoo) but the masses say I really shouldn't have to. Kinda validating if this is actually a thing.
If you have corners lifting during big prints it's nearly always due to a bad first layer or warping. An enclosure, even if it has an open lid since PLA doesn't really like high enclosure temps, would probably do wonders. But if you have an i3 style printer, enclosures can be kind of a PITA. You could also try a draft shield. Basically tell your slicer to print a skirt that's the same height as the print itself.
Pla can also warp when not cooled enough. Although with a a decent textured Pei sheets you should never have pla adhesion issues honestly