DIY

It's a bit of a long story but someone tried using spray foam to fill the hole around where my sink's plumbing goes through and it seems like it essentially expanded too much and causing the paint to tear.

I was thinking maybe I could get some rigid insulation cut it to size, stick it in there, and spackle over it followed by painting it. I would probably cut the rest of the paint to the top because it looks as if it is going to tear eventually and it's at an angle.

Any suggestions?

The gap is close to an inch in size.

How are these usually attached to the wall? Can I just pry them off or would that damage the drywall?

And follow up questions: how can I reproduce that texture when painting the newly exposed areas of the wall?

I'm looking to install some cutoff switch on this 3-pin connector. It almost looks like a PC 4-pin 12v connector, but it actually connects to a Broan CRV motor. Specific model is the L150L.

I originally wanted a ventilator with a timer, but they installed an inline CRV (intake only) with a crazy 150CFM for a tiny 480sqft suite. Massively overkill, and loud. I'd prefer to put this on a timer, or even better would be a smart switch control. But at the very least a manual switch would be great.

For now, and for the last two years, I just have this unplugged, as shown in the image. The passive ventilation on the connected ducting has been more than enough to turn the air around. But sometimes it'd prefer to enable the intake for a time. I just can't have it on all the time because the air turnaround is nutty, not to mention the blast of cold air in the middle of winter.

Any ideas for a switch that fits this connector, or a DIY switch, and/or something to hook to a timer, OR smart switch somehow?

Hi

I installed a circular flap on my ducting for my bathroom vent. This was because outside air was spilling into the bathroom. I've installed a round flap on the ducting which is meant to sit closed unless the the extractor fan pushes air against it to open. It does work but also air from outside seems to swing it open, so I can hear it flap open and close during windy spells.

It's located in the loft about 20cm after the extractor unit, with the remaining 1m og ducting going into the sophet fascia before exiting downwards outside.

Is this something as silly as putting the flap on backwards? I assume not as the flap would be closed when the fan is on and there hasn't been any extractor issues.

Not sure how it happened but my inclination is dry Rot. I don't see much of any mold or mildew around and the room does not feel damp or smells moldy so I'm really not sure if fungus is the cause. I'm trying to finish the space and frame a wall under this joist but I'm afraid that I won't be able to nail into it since it looks like shredded paper. I looked up some techniques to strengthen floor joists so my main ask is:

What is this? How does it happen? And how can I repair it DIY? (Some people online recommend consulting a structural engineer, but I'd rather not if possible) I was thinking of sistering the joists, but with it being a pocket joist I'm not sure if that's ideal.

Added a second picture for what I think is the dry Rot, but it looks small and not dangerous?

Any great ideas on how to pull the outlet forward without pulling the panel off? I’m thinking I might be able to cut the board enough to get the outlet tabs out but still hide the hole behind the plate.

Braille displays can be expensive, so this project idea focuses on making them cheaper and open source

Not sure how to link or crosspost yet, im a Rexxitor, but I built this from scratch, including the the wall framing, drywall, cusom mortar shower pan, and the hardwood floor insert. It was 98% complete here.