3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
I think it is best to first print a temp tower then some retraction test where you would stick with same temperature and variates distance and speed. You can use tools here to make it simple. https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
If after that, you still have stringing, best is to test a new spool (or dry your spool) as too much humidity in pla will give you stringing whatever settings you use
I haven’t shown them, but I did print a temp tower and retraction tower when I first got the printer, which is how I got my initial 190deg, 4.5mm@40mm/s settings and those worked until I flashed Klipper. Now it seems that flashing may correlate with the filament having gotten wet.
You may want to try hotter too if you haven't yet. Printing faster can sometimes require a bit of extra heat and too low can cause a different kind of stringing.