3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
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I would put the difference even higher between my 2.4 and my old i3 clone, but I'm also running a 0.6mm nozzle and print with 0.9mm extrusion width / 2 walls and 0.3mm layer heights. My limiting factor is volumetric flow, which I've found to vary between materials (ASA = way easier to print fast than PETG).
Do you have any suggestions for upgrading the base kit? There are so many options.
I believe the official Voron recommendation is to build the printer stock first and then upgrade/ mod from there. Which is solid advice, the stock machines are very competent and don't need upgrades to print well.
The only real day-1 upgrade I'd recommend is called the Klicky switch (or the PCB variant so that you don't have to do any soldering, just crimping). The stock BoM calls for an inductive probe, which works, but is prone to thermal drift (it gets less accurate as the printer heats up, so you have to do your bed mesh at the same temperature every time). Klicky replaces it with a limit switch- generally more reliable and accurate regardless of temperature.
I might also recommend a belt tension gauge (totally not needed, but more convenient than trying to measure the sound frequency). I use a remix of this one (assembled, kit), but realistically, anything repeatable will do the trick.
Everything beyond that is going to depend heavily on your kit, printer, and needs. For example, the LDO kits actually come with the mechanical parts for the Klicky switch among other nice to haves. Or alternatively, if you're doing a 350 2.4 and planning on long running enclosed prints (ABS/ASA), ~~extension~~ extrusion backers for the flying gantry may be a good idea (the steel linear rails and aluminum have different rates of thermal expansion, which can cause them to bend as the internal volume of the printer warms up), but they're not especially necessary if you have a smaller printer or only ever work with PLA (which you can leave the door open/ panels off for).
The official Voron discord is also a phenomenal resource. Plus most vendors run their own discord servers for help/ questions (I'm partial to Fabreeko, because their customer service is above and beyond, but West3D is also really good).
Thanks for the great info! I have a bunch of questions -
So the Klicky Switch is the probe? I see there is a Clicky Clack door kit. Don't want to confuse them.
Also, the belt tension gauge. I see some one Amazon, is any one good enough. They seem to be about $30
I don't see anything about a extension rails for a flying gantry. I do see LDO rails, but when I pick that option it tells me "Includes 6 MGN9 rails and 1 MGN12 (recommended) - Option to choose 8x MGN9s."
Are these kits CoreXY and self leveling?
Also the kit has options for the controller board and display, which is Octopus and Mini123864 (matched w/brand of board). That means I don't need to order a Raspberry PI?
I was thinking about upgrading the extruder to an Orbiter 2.5, and the hotend to a Mosquito Magnum, heater to Slice 50w, Thermistor cartridge to Slice PT1000.
I know you said the default setup is perfectly fine, but I've been eyeing the Slice products for a while now. I'm willing to pay the extra money and go above the $1500 to have them. Do you find this overkill?