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Suggestions for what Class of Electrician Gloves I Want for Fiddling About in my CRT (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 year ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

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like it says on the tin, I've read up on the safety tips and have a pretty modern set (FD trinitron KV-13FS100) so I'm knowing that reduces my risk too as those are supposed to discharge faster naturally (and I'm already planning on leaving it unplugged for at least a day).

BUT I have shaky hands sometimes so I'm looking at what my options are for gloves I can wear for incidental openings or while discharging it. As far as I've read they come in class ratings for different voltages, and I'm trying to figure out what would be a sensible class to get to keep myself covered given the other precautions I'm already taking.

I gave the wiki link on the sidebar and didn't see much advice beyond the general "gloves are good", so if any of y'all have any more info to dump or point me towards I would be in your debt. Thanks!

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[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

You can go to an industrial supply store like Grainger to custom order electrically insulated gloves. That's where I went to get mine - they helped me get properly fitted and find one that was suitable (Ansell Class 0).

Whatever you do, don't rely on Amazon for stuff like this. These kinds of gloves are vetted for protection for only a certain amount of time and you can't rely on random resellers to guarantee that. Careless packaging and handling can also potentially damage the gloves and render them useless, another reason to order directly from an industrial supplier.

Also, don't allow yourself to be careless when operating on a CRT just because you have electrical gloves. Do your research thoroughly and plan out exactly what you need to do beforehand. I haven't gotten shocked yet with mine, but I don't want to put it to the test for obvious reasons.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

thanks for the input! It's definitely more to go on. My access to a physical supply store might be a bit limited, but I'll google up where my closest might be and also take a look at Grainger online. The fact that their suggestion was a class 0 is already a pretty positive point in the right direction.

Also - I know what you mean about amazon - there are a massive load of off brands with photoshopped "usage" photos out there. I think I found a single legit industrial supply seller (Magid), and from there just ended up on their own site looking at what all the options were. That was the point where I backed off and thought I'd ask others cause it's a lot of info to uptake

Really, I wouldn't even go this far if I had only needed to open it and dust (even when doing that I was antsy just being walked past unannounced). Problem is upon dusting I found a fallen yoke spacer and that's definitely going to need me to get in there hands on and possibly be creative. At this point I don't even know if I can salvage any of the existing adhesives, so it'll probably be opened and closed a few times as I figure out what my game plan is going to be. Either way I'm going to have to get much more friendly with the yoke than I wanted to, and even with know how to discharge the anode, I'm definitely not comfortable getting my fingers that close without some kind of protection from an unintentional bump.