techsupport

I primarily use external drives (USB flash drives) and cloud storage (PCloud) for active file management and storage but unfortunately the default file delete action is a permanent delete and not a send-to-recycle bin and I have scoured the internet looking for a way to change the delete settings but they only tell you how to permanently delete files. So to prevent future disaster, is there a way to make sure I don't delete things from at least my flash drive, since I believe PCloud has a backup feature.

I was cloning my moms 237gb ssd to her new 1tb ssd on her windows 11 S computer using clonezilla and after booting into the 1tb drive it is showing up as 237gb. So I took out my live usb with gparted only to find out the partition used to store the data was indeed taking up 1tb. Is the a reason why it is not showing up as 1tb. Here are the options I choose to clone the drive if that helps. I also have some screenshots as well.

Screenshots

File Explorer

Windows Disk Management

GParted

Clonezilla Steps I took

1. device to device

2. Expert mode

3. disk to local disk

4. Chose my soure and target drive

5. Left everything at default

6. skiped disk checking

7. -k1 Create partition table proportionally

My laptop charges with USB C, so when the standard charger broke, I just used the USB out port from an EcoFlow battery. The display on the battery said the laptop pulled 25-30 watts while charging. So, why can't I use just any USB brick that can output more than 30 watts?

Is there something that is bound to go wrong that I don't know about?

Are laptop chargers really that special?

(Edited for clarity)

I use wired earbuds. Last week, I started noticing issues with my current pair on my android phone. The first issue was that the audio would disconnect if the headphones cord going into the jack was slightly moved. The issue seemed to progress, whereby audio disconnects happened more commonly. Eventually, the headphone issue started changing tracks in Tidal (the headphones do not have a next track button) all by itself and launching the google music app and playing songs in it.

I assumed my earbuds were at fault, but the same earbuds perform fine in my laptop and other earbuds experience the same issue in my phone.

Restarting the phone temporarily removes this issue, but it seems to start up again the longer the phone is on.

Has anyone else experience this? Does anyone know what's going on and how I can fix this? Did an update get pushed to my phone that's intended to brick earbuds?

Edit: Thanks to everyone for their helpful suggestions and comments ☺️!

Hi everyone,

I’m experiencing some frustrating issues with my ASUS Vivobook 15 Pro K3500PC and I'm wondering if anyone else has come across similar problems.

A few days ago, my laptop was working fine, but after a 30-minute trip home, it wouldn’t turn on. I tried charging it, but the LED indicator didn’t light up. After some research, I found a suggestion to hold the power button for about 40 seconds to turn it on. Surprisingly, it worked!

However, when I tried to adjust the brightness, the indicator showed it was increasing, but the screen brightness remained the same. I seemed to stay at the lowest level. At least it was working, but a few hours later, I went to get some coffee, and when I came back, it was off again with no charging indicator.

To add to the frustration, my warranty expired a few months ago. I took it to the repair shop I usually go to, and they informed me that there’s an issue with the motherboard.

Has anyone else experienced these power and brightness issues with their ASUS Vivobook 15 Pro K3500PC? Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Hi,

Can anyone give some recommendations for an external storage for Nvidia Shield Pro (USB 3.0)?

Requirements:

• Reliability (so it won't die on me in a few years or won't start having issues with the data on it)

• Fast (it's for the purpose of storing and playing videos, including 4K)

• Size 8-10TB

• Price up to ~ $255 (unless it's extremely worth it to go a little above that)

Thanks in advance.

Hello! I am interested in creating my own cloud storage network, but I have to idea how to even start it. It's just for myself, mainly pictures and videos. Ideally what I would like to do is be able to manually and/or automatically upload pictures and videos from my phone to my home cloud storage. I have Xfinity as my service provider. What is the cheapest and simplest way to achieve this?

Hi all! I recently built a cold storage server with three 1TB drives configured in RAID5 with LVM2. This is my first time working with LVM, so I'm a little bit overwhelmed by all its different commands. I have some questions:

1. How do I verify that none of the drives are failing? This is easy in case of a catastrophic drive failure (running lvchange -ay <volume group> will yell at you that it can't find a drive), but what about subtler cases?
2. Do I ever need to manually resync logical volumes? Will LVM ever "ask" me to resync logical volumes in cases other than drive failure?
3. Is there any periodic maintenance that I should do on the array, like running some sort of health check?
4. Does my setup prevent me from data rot? What happens if a random bit flips on one of the hard drives? Will LVM be able to detect and correct it? Do I need to scan manually for data rot?
5. LVM keeps yelling at me that it can't find dmeventd. From what I understand, dmeventd doesn't do anything by itself, it's just a framework for different plugins. This is a cold storage server, meaning that I will only boot it up every once in a while, so I would rather perform all maintenance manually instead of delegating it to a daemon. Is it okay to not install dmeventd?
6. Do I need to monitor SMART status manually, or does LVM do that automatically? If I have to do it manually, is there a command/script that will just tell me "yep, all good" or "nope, a drive is failing" as opposed to the somewhat overwhelming output of smartctl -a?
7. Do I need to run SMART self-tests periodically? How often? Long test or short test? Offline or online?
8. The boot drive is an SSD separate from the raid array. Does LVM keep any configuration on the boot drive that I should back up?

Just to be extra clear: I'm not using mdadm. /proc/mdstat lists no active devices. I'm using the built-in raid5 feature in lvm2. I'm running the latest version of Alpine Linux, if that makes a difference.

Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated!

How I created the array:

pvcreate /dev/sda /dev/sdb /dev/sdc
vgcreate myvg /dev/sda /dev/sdb /dev/sdc

pvresize  /dev/sda
pvresize  /dev/sdb
pvresize  /dev/sdc

lvcreate --type raid5 -L 50G -n vol1 myvg
lvcreate --type raid5 -L 300G -n vol2 myvg
lvcreate --type raid5 -l +100%FREE -n vol3 myvg

For education purposes, I also simulated a catastrophic drive failure by zeroing out one of the drives. My procedure to repair the array was as follows, which seemed to work correctly:

pvcreate /dev/sda
vgextend myvg /dev/sda
vgreduce --remove --force myvg
lvconvert --repair myvg/vol1
lvconvert --repair myvg/vol2
lvconvert --repair myvg/vol3

Just got a high refresh rate monitor (PG248QP) and it makes this high pitched noise when I set it to 500hz. Anyone else have this problem with this or other high refresh rate monitors?

I have my phone set to remember my car, my wife's car, and a pair of bluetooth headphones. When it's within range of one of them, it connects and all is well.... until it detects another one, then it changes to that.

On the way home from work yesterday, I passed my wife on the interstate. Didn't notice her car, but did notice my music suddenly stop... oh well; not gonna futz with bluetooth when I'm driving... guess it'll just be quiet for the rest of the trip.

Couple minutes later, it comes back. Yay!

Make it home, and as I'm getting out of the car, the wife pulls up, so I wait for her and we're chatting our way back to the apartment. She mentions her car randomly started playing heavy metal on the way home for a minute, then stopped. Now the gears are turning - I ask if it was around the area when mine went silent, and yup! I was a couple lanes over, but my phone detected her car and ditched mine to connect to it.

I've noticed it auto-hop from my car to my headphones or vice versa before, but car to car is a new one.

It's really annoying... and seems like the kind of thing that should be a check box in the settings, but I got nothing.

Phone is a Google Pixel 8 if that helps.

I'd really like it to connect when it comes in range of a recognized device ONLY if it's not already connected to another device...

Am I just stupid? This seems super basic...

This video is from four years ago, but it still true to this date:

Windows Users Can't Seem to Blame Windows For Its Own Problems (clip from Destination Linux 179) - by Michael Tunnell (TuxDigital), Published on June 10, 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4p_jezxzGKk

I still can't believe that there are so many users, as far as I've seen in Reddit, trying to fix the unfixable in Windows.

TechSupport Subreddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/new/

I know this seems like two unrelated questions, so let me explain why I would like to do one of these two things: I recently got a drawing pen tablet with a display, which works fine, except that I am left handed, and my wrist keeps hitting the side buttons. The driver allows me to flip the pen inputs, but not the actual display, it just works as a regular monitor in that regard and relies on the windows settings (windows 11 in my case).

Now, I can flip it if I set it to extend my main monitor, however, I would like to be able to see what I am doing on either monitor, so I would prefer it to mirror my main monitor, just rotated 180 degrees. Some googling suggests that windows does not allow you to do this, except for a glitch involving changing the settings to extend and then back to duplicate, which I cannot manage to achieve. Does anyone know any workaround, or some extra software or such, that would allow me to do this?

Alternatively, if this cannot be done by any means, I would rather not use the extend function as is as I also often play games where moving the mouse to the edge of the screen moves the map around, and so would rather my mouse stay at an edge when reached instead of moving to the next monitor, ideally with some sort of hotkey to toggle what monitor the mouse is on. Is there a way I might achieve something like this?

EDIT: turns out this was all unnecessary, because the tablet itself has an option to do this rotation, its just in a part of the on-board display settings I didnt see before, isnt accessible from the driver UI that Ive seen, and wasnt mentioned on the tutorials that I found on the manufacturer's site that suggested windows had be used to control that rotation. Thanks anyways to everyone that tried to help me while I spent hours searching for a workaround needlessly.

I finally decided to upgrade my opnsense box after a couple of years of deferring and, in the heat of the moment, forgot to double-check I had configuration backups. After the upgrade to OPNsense 24.1.8-amd64 (FreeBSD 13.2-RELEASE-p11), there were some issues with LAN clients accessing the WAN that I solved by resetting to default settings. (I have not modified much, so it’s somewhat trivial to add back aliases and rules.)

Now, however, I am facing a problem where port forwarded services do not work. I am running Nginx Proxy Manager to handle the various web services on my LAN and the setup has served me well for years. I have made no changes to Nginx PM, to my port forwarding rules (see below), or to the individual services and their boxes. Put simply, everything was working 100% without issue until I foolishly upgraded.

Firewall: NAT: Port Forward

I suspect the issue is a double NAT issue with my godawful BGW320-505 gateway. I have had this configured to IP passthrough mode without issue for years. But, after the Opnsense upgrade (and defaults), I did notice that my interfaces display what looks to be an upstream-gateway assigned IP address. Previously, my upstream WAN gateway was the IP address of the BGW320-505 box.

IP passthrough mode

System: Gateways: Configuration

Interfaces

Despite all of the above, there seems to be some weird DNS issue/NAT issue. The strongest example I’ve uncovered of this is, from my LAN directly accessing my WAN IP. While this should show me my http-facing webserver, the request times out for a while then eventually resolves to a 404 page but–and this is the bizarre part–not before appending :440 (my webgui port for Opnsense) to the WAN IP in the address bar. (Note that this does not occur when accessing my direct IP address from exterior to the network.) I’m hoping that is the key to solving this but, after more than 15 hours spent researching this and trying various solutions available on forums/reddit/etc., I have not found anything to work.

Please help!

Call me old-fashioned, but I think 86MB is an obscenely large size for an image thumbnail. Would rather not have these automatically download as I'm on a limited data plan. Wish I had the option to substitute a static image for the thumbnail.

I realize that post may be entirely appropriate for the community to which it was submitted, but have seen plenty of animated avatar icons, etc. and just find that sort of thing distracting and would like to disable or block them if possible. Using Firefox and already running a script blocker with allowances for Lemmy server instances.

which one wold pair up better, less bottleneck and all that, a bottleneck calculator said the 560 works better, can i trust it? Is there any other gpus i should consider? (Small budget, Brazil is complicated)

(I use linux, if that changes something)

Ever since I installed an SSD and fixed my monitor, all forms of audio stopped working in my computer except for bluetooth devices. I've tried everything you can find with searching "site:reddit.com" but I've found nothing helpful. Please help, I'll try to answer any questions for more information.

Is it a physical structure of the chip or is it programming? Because how can linux ARM run on a device that used to run windows x86?

Hi guys! Hope this is the appropriate place to ask this question, but here it goes.

I have a Dell Inspiron 7520 laptop with integrated Intel and ATI graphics.

Recently I've installed Debian 12 on it, using Plasma.

Everything is fine and dandy, but there's a problem; when the system comes back from sleep, or I boot up the PC with the lid closed down, the screen never comes back. The system is running, but there is no screen.

Also, it's not just a blank screen, it does not get power, no backlight, no image on the screen if I shine a flashlight onto it and look hard.

Interrestingly, if I switch sessions to any ttys, the screen comes back and the terminal session displays fine. If I Alt+F7 back to the graphical session, the screen turns off again.

In theory, every graphics driver should be installed, I have non-free-firmware in my sources.list, all the packages that the Debian documentation mentions are installed.

Don't know, if relevant, but same on both X11 and Wayland.

Any ideas?

Thanks, guys :)

Some specs of the machine:

• CPU: Intel Core i7 (3rd Gen) 3612QM / 2.1 GHz
• GPU: Intel HD Graphics 4000 + AMD Radeon HD 7730M (switchable*)
• RAM: 16GB**

*: Not sure this switchable thingamajig works, tho. Haven't really tested, the only purpose of this machine is to start OBS and begin outputting video on NDI.

**: Though 16GB is not really supported on paper I guess and had some really funky issues before, not sure what was the real purpose, the system is rock solid since the last few OS installs.

it keeps looping in an infinite loop when i log in, even if i disable access it would begin the log in loop again, any way to fix it? also, not a issue with the browser engine. ( i mean google log in loop)

I'm not sure if this is a good place to ask this, but I couldnt find any active uBlock Origin -communities here. Please delete if this is inappropriate to ask.

This blog has an annoying dark mode toggle, that keeps following the page as you scroll. I have tried to block it by uBlock Origins picker tool, but it only allows selecting the little flame image, creating a filter:

"acoup.blog##.darkmode-toggle"

Yet there remains a partly transparent, unselectable round artifact after this, that keeps following the page like the toggle.

I know I can disable javascript on the page to make it go away, but its tedious to do it every time.

Any tips how to block that annoying little toggle?

I'm not sure when this actually started, but it's been mildly annoying. I'm not able to find any results online about what causes it, or how to fix it.

In the case of the screenshot, it appears when I click the "Health" tab of Wintoys. This error also sometimes shows up when opening the Settings app, and every time I launch Forza Horizon 5. The error always shows 3 times, one after another, then as far as I can tell nothing else happens.

From my research it has something to do with updating, but I'm not sure why it tries to load it in Horizon 5.

Steps I've taken (not in this specific order)

• Tried every built in file system/windows error checker (found no errors)

• Tried copying over an "older" version of the DLL from a previous update stack (required SYSTEM permissions, so didn't press further)

• Tried repairing using Windows Installation Media ("couldn't repair")

• Tried updating windows (no luck)

I'm trying here because I'm hoping maybe there are some helpful anecdotes that might be able to fix it! I am using a Ryzen 7 5800X, just in case this is caused by an incompatibility that I don't know about. I can provide more specs/information if needed :)

Edit: reformatted the steps I took, since it looks like it turned into a big wall of text (at least on Sync)

Edit 2: added the edit text 🤫

I got a bunch of DVDs my local library was getting rid of and there are a few very obscure ones that I would like to archive. However I am unsure how to get the data from the DVD into a shareable format what’s the easiest way to do this? Thanks!

I use Windows 10 22H2 on desktop with an Orico Bluetooth dongle. A few days ago I tested a Baseus Bluetooth dongle for my brother, ever since then, these services start having issues. I tried borrowing it back but the same thing still happens. I uninstalled both dongles drivers and reinstall only the Orico one but that didn't fix anything. I even tried changing the value in regedit to automatic but the services don't start on their own and stop after a while. Blue Support Service even straight up Disabled even though the value in regedit doesn't change Windows Troubleshoot says that it's fixed but it didn't do anything. I've tried updating Windows but I've getting error for months.

I even bought another dongle from a different brand and the problem still there. Is there a way to fix this? I have 2TB of data in the C drive and have no way to back it up so I don't want to reinstall Window.

So I have a fresh Windows 11 install on my PC; I did it to attempt to fix another issue I was having, but it turns out that was due to faulty RAM. Since I’ve been on the fresh install though, I've been encountering hard crashes that I can’t diagnose.

I’ve installed drivers (Chipset, CPU, GPU)

Updated my SSD firmware (though not on my boot drive or for my hard drives)

Updated BIOS

Reset CMOS

Have my GPU running stock and very well-cooled

I do have XMP enabled, as well as PBO on my 5900X. There was no issue with these for the year+ I was on my old Windows 11 install, or on Windows 10 before that, and I’d really prefer to leave these on since I game on this computer.

I leave my computer running with the monitors off most of the time, since it also functions as a Plex server. Recently I’ve been leaving the screens on, and caught a DPC_Watchdog_Violation blue screen which had evidently hard-crashed once it reached 100%. A post from Tom’s Hardware recommended going into Control Panel to install “Standard SATA AHCI Controller” for my SSDs, which I did, but I’m still getting the hard crashing.

I’m at a bit of a loss here; the only real common factor is that my displays are turned off when the hard crashes occur. I left them on all day yesterday with no issue, turned them off through the night, turn them back on the today, still with no issue, and then had a hard crash this afternoon during the 1 hour period I had them switched off. Also, this issue has never occurred while I’ve been using my PC, and it seems to happen at random intervals.

I’ve had issues with hard crashes in the past related to GPU temps and messing with the GPU voltage, or playing with CPU voltage, but never something like this. This didn’t happen while I was using my PC like this on the previous Windows install.

EDIT: Did 2 runs with memtest (all tests selected) and it passed both times. Also ran OCCT with the more demanding workload, and again no crashes

EDIT 2: I finally found a solution. Having tried a ton of different fixes, nothing could make the problem go away, and it resembled previous issues I’d had when components weren’t getting enough voltage. Finally I found this post, and after changing the settings in BIOS (setting Power Supply Idle Control to “Typical”, and Global C-State control to “Off”), I’ve had no further issues.

(I know Linux is better than Windows, there's a better time and place for that talk)

SPECS: OS: Windows 10 Pro N Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 Gaming Plus CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X GPU: NVidia GeForce RTX 4060 Ti RAM: 4x HyperX Fury DDR4 8GB sticks (two rated for one clock speed, the other two rated for another. As I understand it the faster sticks will just run at the speed of the lower two, and it deffo ain't causing issues cause I've tested games with just one pair or the other. Both gave me crashes)

Minidump file: https://www.mediafire.com/file/g34xykxagp29246/050524-8937-01.dmp/file

Simply put, built a custom Windows machine and it gives me BSODs on many more recent games. Deep Rock Galactic, crashes within seconds to minutes of actual gameplay (not including the hub). Remnant: From the Ashes, crashes within minutes on the overworld. Starfield, crashes within minutes to two hours. Blood West, crashes within five minutes of gameplay. Helldivers 2 works fine ingame, but once I quit the game it blue screens within seconds of returning to the desktop.

I've reinstalled drivers. I've disabled sound drivers. I've popped the computer open and reseated everything at least two or three times so far. RAM was tested using MemTest86, no issues at all. CPU temps tend not to exceed anything higher than the 70-75 range ingame (hot, but my processor is rated for up to 90 Celsius). I've reapplied thermal paste four times. I'm on my third install of Windows so far, with this being the Pro N version rather than the Pro version I tried the first two installs. I've had a bit of a go at googling the highlighted files in the Minidump file, but at this point I'm all but giving up. If the Internet can't fix this shit, I'll just sell the components or machine at a loss and stick with an older gaming laptop.